Thursday, May 28, 2009

Fresh and Fragile Pilsner

On a restaurant’s patio or a friend’s balcony, it is time to enjoy the summer, the sun, the barbecues, with a fresh beer at hand… and no is more fresh than the pilsner.

Born in Bohemia during the 18th century, it was among the first blonde lagers. The family encompass the beers produced by bottom-fermenting. The process involves the fermentation of the mash by Sacharromyces uvarum at around 10°C in wide, shallow vats. The yeasts flocculate at the bottom of the vats, hence the name. The low temperature allows only a relatively low alcohol yield, while the short path of the CO2 bubbles produced in the vats prevents it from “fishing” out the aromatic compounds on its way up.
The resulting golden product was a huge success. Pilsners benefitted from the replacement of metal and clay mugs by clear glasses. For the first time, customers were able to see what they were drinking. Appearances in this case were not deceiving. Pilsner is defined by its crisp and fresh taste, granted by the strong aromas of hops and malt: the perfect bittersweet beer. Sadly, its flavour is as fragile as it is delectable.
Notes of skunk and cardboard can quickly deteriorate the balance of pilsners. How does this phenomenon can take place in a closed bottle? Beer is 95% water, 5-ish% ethanol, the rest being sugars and other various organic compounds creating the aroma and taste of the product. For the pilsner, many of these compounds come from the high amounts of hops added in the brewing. In recent years, it has been shown that at least 40 organic acids and furanones were responsible for the pilsner’s aroma and that a mix of 23 molecules was necessary to approximate it artificially.
Pilsner, with their high hop content are especially prone to develop a skunk odour... but only when they are stored in clear bottles. Light excites the beer’s aromatic compounds, which in turn react with specific isomers of organic acids derived from hop. Add a little sulphur compounds in the mix and the skunky 3-methylbut-2-ene-1-thiol is produced. Pilsner lovers learn quickly to beware of clear bottles and to go for cask or cans.
But the lager’s skunk odour is not the only danger for the pilsner it is also prone to develop during storage a strange “off’ taste. Recently, it has been shown that a class of compound, a-dicarbonyls, are steadily produced by the enolization of carbohydrates. There was no surprise there: Sacharromyces is one of the most creative chemist and new compounds are discovered everyday in alcohols.
The real interest came with the realization that the a-dicarbonyls were degraded in aldehydes and enols in a Maillard reaction. These reactions take place usually at high temperatures between a reducing sugar and an amino acid or a peptide, producing tasty, brownish products. We have to thank it for the bread’s crust, caramel and roasted coffee. In a Pilsner bottle though, the Maillard reaction to happen (although quite slowly), and produces... the unwanted flavours of expired beer. The next step for the industry would now consist of inhibiting the final step. Sulphites, by examples have this ability, albeit they are not popular among the public, without real ground... But that would be the subject of another column...

For further reading :
Bravo et al. J. Agric. Food Chem. (2008) 56(11), 4134-44
Fritsch et al. J. Agric. Food Chem. (2005) 53(19), 7544-51
Jaskula et al. J. Agric. Food Chem. (2008) 56(15), 6408-15

Get That Brain Sweating With Some Sport Drink

Feeling guilty about your sweet tooth? Don't : it could help you getting better at sports.
If sugar means energy, sweet drinks should not boost your performance if you exercise for less than an hour. The organism simply cannot process carbohydrates that fast... However, studies did shown that drinking the sugary sport drinks enhance performance... but only if they are drank; not if they are injected (even if publicists would love the picture of an athlete with a Gatorade I.V.).
Recent experiments involving brain fMRIs of cyclists were able to reconcile the mysterious power of sports drink with the basic principles of biochemistry. Athletes drinking saccharin – a sugar substitute - show activity in their operculum and DLPFC. If they drink glucose-laden water tough, regions in their striatum and cingular cortex light up as well. At the same time, the performance of these cyclists drinking one of the two last solutions was improved by 2 to 3 %.
It is already known that the striatum and cingular cortez are involved in reward mechanism, affecting the dopaminergic pathways. On the other hand, the power output of athletes during exercise can be lowered by the pain and aches developing through their body. A model now advanced by the research group is that activation of certain regions of the brain by carbohydrates might help bypass this effect.
Sport drinks work: doesn’t she look energized?A remarkable observation is that the same effect is observed for a non-sweetening carbohydrate – maltodextrin, as well as for glucose. Protein receptors of the sweet-tooth, T1R2 and T1R3, thus seem involve3d and that process. Another, “secret” type of receptor might be hiding in our mouth, ready to detect the presence of energy at the tip of your tongue...

For further reading
Chambers et al., J. Physiol. 2009, 1779-94

The amazing scientifically optimized pizza

Pizza is arguably the perfect food. It can be adapted to all tastes, contains the whole array of food groups, is visually apetizing, simple to eat and… well simply delicious. Born in the 18th century poor houses of Naples when they decided to add some of those cheap and overlooked tomatoes to their flat bread, the pizza was complete when their countrymen added for flavour oil, anchovies, basil or mozarella.
The later can be seen as one of the finest addition. Coincidence or culinary genius of the enlightened Italy, mozarella is the perfect physico-chemical companion to pizza. Cheese in essence a gel made of two intermingled phases : the solid curds and the liquid whey – a eutectic mixture. At room tempreature, the mix is stable, but heat it up and eventually the two phases will separate and never form back a gel even if cooled. The eutectic characteristics of mozarella allow it to melt across just the right range of temperature without burning, nor causing its separation in its two constituants.
If the cheese is the crown of the pizza, its foundation and secret weapon is its crust. Not only must it be soft, light and hearthy, the stylish crust has to be shaped in the air with the famed italian’s chef toss. The trick makes the gourmand Napolitans drool and the mechanical engineers of Monash University think. They observed that the tossing of the pizza dough mimic the motion of their ultrasonic motor. In the hope of optimizing it, they studied the tour de main of italian bakers while shaping the perfect pizza. They observed that the first toss has to be helical to maximize the energy transmitted by friction. However, to keep the pizza rotating at its maximal speed, the subsequent tosses should follow a tilted ellipse.
As a final note, if, minding your health and not your taste buds, you suffer from pizza guilt, researchers have also had a tought for you. Whole wheat crust sounds good to you? Many studies link the benefits of whole wheat with a highest antioxidant potential. Investigating the influence of the baking process on it, researchers observed that the longest you allow the dough to ferment and the slower you cook it, the higher the antioxidant potential of the crust will be.

For further reading
Liu KC et al., (2009) Europhys. Let., 85, 6000, 1-5
Moore J. et al. (2009) J. Agric. Food Chem., 57(3), 832-9
Cobb C. & Fetterolf ML, The Joy of Chemistry, Prometheus books, New York, 2005, ch. 14